Kashmir.. beauty beyond words

Heaven on Earth has become a tagline to describe the beauty of Kashmir & very aptly so!

Kashmir, right up in the North of India is on the travel list of most people I know. We had been wanting to visit Kashmir since a long time. Finally we planned the trip at the nick of time in Apr'16,  houseboat booking was done one day prior to leaving.

The start of the trip was really eventful for me. We had a 4 a.m flight to catch  & just the previous evening we had spotted a not-so-welcome friend in our home-a Rat!!
being the owl I am, I slept around 1 a.m to catch a quick nap before leaving for the airport. In those 30 mins, I felt something scamper on me & I shrieked & flung the sheet to see the rat run over the ledge.
So yeah .. next one week we were going to leave our home with a rat! We closed all other rooms, placed some traps around & left . I was now really grateful for the very early morning flight because there was no chance I would've fallen asleep on my bed after that! Talk about silver linings :)

We reached Srinagar pretty early in the morning. Wanderbug's Kritika helped us with her trusted travel contact - Mr Shaukat who picked us from Srinagar Airport. Shaukat is a very reliable driver for Kashmir. (+91 99068 76232)

As you drive out of Srinagar airport, you cant help but notice the number of armed forces men around. Something you are definitely not used to while on a vacation.
Shaukat took us to a vegetarian place Krishna Vaishno Dhaba for breakfast. We had one of the best ever Onion Uttappam (a type of savoury crepe) Lil joys :)

Along the way..

Day 1 : Aharbal_ Awantipur ruins_Pahalgam

We went towards Aharbal falls from the airport. Pretty scenery greeted us throughout.. As soon as we reached Aharbal & walked around a bit it started raining & we couldn't make it to the falls. So we started towards Pahalgam along with a pit stop at Avantipura temple ruin. The ruins have beautiful carvings.

Aharbal

Avantipur Temple Ruins

Along the way to Pahalgam, we saw this gorgeous straight out of a calendar sight. Clouds descending over mustard fields & snow capped mountains at a distance. Ofcourse we had to stop & soak in.
Like most places known for natural beauty, Kashmir too offers the best during the journey than the destination.

We reached Pahalgam post lunch & stayed at Fresh water resort. It is by the river with spacious comfortable rooms with lovely valley views. The staff is good too. You do need your own transport to stay here as it is away from the town.

Fresh Water Resort

Bliss of holidays- Breakfast table in the morning sun

Day 2 : Pahalgam sightseeing

After a lovely breakfast we went towards the town centre. Horses & guides greeted us along with a board mentioning random sightseeing package rates. We are both not fans of horse riding & given the fact it had rained the previous day meant slippery slopes throughout. Still we did manage to negotiate & strike a deal. I sat on the horse & heard my inner voice scream 'No can't do this !' & within the same minute we got off :) So we missed Baisaran or mini Switzerland

As it is, we are not the sight seeing tick mark travellers, so we didn't give it much thought. Shaukat took us to Betaab & Aru valley next which is accessible by car. We stepped into picturesque meadows with snow capped mountains at a distance. There is a nice garden built here, so we spent a good amount of time in the garden & then by the river having some chaats.

Little later we went to another more peaceful place by the river. Shaukat was well versed with the area & knew all the quaint places.

Early evening we decided to check out the popular Hotel Heevan. The entrance to Heevan is fantastic, you walk on a wooden bridge to enter the hotel & its right by a gushing river.
Since Pahalgam is more in the interior you wont see much of armed forces here.
We returned to Fresh water by dinner time & then watched a movie in their movie room while interacting with the staff.

Entry to Hotel Heevan

Day 3 : Pahalgam to Gulmarg

This was a beautiful route. Fields of yellow flowers greeted us everywhere. We stopped by to purchase a Kashmiri willow cricket bat for our nephew, some dry fruits & then had kahwa from a Samovar.

Come away...

Luscious yellow blooms

Craftsman at work

Kahwa

We reached Gulmarg post lunch. As you ascend towards Gulmarg from the plains, you will see coniferous trees all around. We stopped at the base to hire shoes to walk on the snow. Tried on & bought, but look at my luck,  later I discovered that they had given me two different sizes by mistake. So it was tough for me to walk around in a super tight shoe on one leg & was too late to go all the way down to return them.

As we kept going up the winding roads, snow greeted us all around.
Hotel Nedous is a spread out property. Our rooms, were way up from the main reception. The room is decently sized with a heater.  After checking in to the hotel, we freshened up & got out to play in the snow! :) That evening we had dinner at Nedous itself, pretty good food.

Straight out of winter wonderland - Cottages at Hotel Nedous

Day 4 : Gondola time

Next morning was scheduled for the famed gondola rides. Nedous to Gulmarg gondola is a short drive away. Shaukat took us to the drop point. Thereon it was pure chaos- crowd , Guides approaching you from everywhere, a line at the ticket window.
Due to curfew in Srinagar, tourists had left Srinagar early in the morning & proceeded to either Gulmarg/Sonmarg.

While I waited in the gondola entry line, the husband got tickets to both the phases. there are a bunch of snow rides at the base to keep you entertained. Khyber hotel is located close to the gondolas.

Phase one is Gulmarg to Kungdoori  ( 8530 ft - Rs 700 pp) & Phase 2 takes one from Kungdoori to Aparwath ( 13,780 ft - Rs 900 pp)

Due to high altitude phase 2 is more weather dependant & the last Gondola ride to reach up there stops sometime in the afternoon. So we first visited phase 2 .

Misty ways- Chair lifts on the left & gondolas on the right

The gondola ride through the misty coniferous trees was an experience to cherish & the sight that awaited us took our breath away!
Miles & miles of soft snow overlooking fluffy white clouds, yes we were that high up!!!

Up above the world so high!

We had a great time just frolicking in the snow & then proceeded to phase 1. Phase one has some eateries & is much more crowded. We were glad to have spent more time at phase 2.

After lunch at Nedous, we started towards Sonmarg.

On our way to Sonmarg more news of curfew at Srinagar started trickling in. Protests in Handwara were being reported. Never have we watched news so intently while on a holiday. Network was erratic, so we just made sure to send a safety msg to family as soon as we got the slightest network.
A friend had recommended Rah Vilas at Sonmarg & thats where we stayed. Its a well done up peaceful hotel with comfortable rooms. We had our evening tea in our room balcony overlooking the valleys.

View from our room

Day 5 : Sonmarg

Next morning we went to explore Sonmarg. Sonmarg means 'meadow of gold'. Once again there was an option of  hiring ponies to visit Thajiwas glacier. Given our Pahalgam experience, we didn't even entertain the 'Pony on snow' thought :)

Kashmir tourism is full of touts & guides which is quite annoying. One has to negotiate everywhere one goes!! In Sonmarg, private vehicles are not allowed. So you need to hire a taxi to take you around. ( yes, more bargaining)

We took a sledge ride which was enjoyable & then walked on our own at Sonmarg valley. It was noon, so it was pretty hot so didn't have to use our hired jackets. but good shoes are a must ;).

Carefree in the lap of nature

Our Olaf

We had the most lovely time lying in the snow watching the beauty around and building our cute lil snowman with 'almond' eyes . While waiting for our taxi, we had piping hot Maggi!! There is nothing like maggi in cold destinations! Reminded me of my Himachal trek years ago.

Do minute ruk sakte hai!

Day 6 - Sonmarg - Srinagar

We spent another night at Sonmarg & went to Srinagar the next day. The curfew continued, so the old part of the city was closed town. Dal & the gardens fall on the civil line & so are open during curfew time too.

That evening we went for a Shikara ride at Dal. Bargaining skills help everywhere, unfortunately we have none!!

A ride around Dal has a pit stop at Char Chinar, an enclosed place in the middle of the lake which houses four chinar trees. There are shikaras offering tea, snacks & kahwa too . So we went to Char Chinar, got some pretty shots of the magnificent Chinar trees & sipped kahwa while waiting for the sunset.

Still Dal & reflections

Under a Chinar tree

Chinar leaf !

Thanks to our patient shikara guy we managed to time our return during sunset. Cant even describe how the sky burst open, I'll let the pictures do the talking :)

Sunset reflections - one of my most favourite picture

Sunset like an artist's brush stroke

It sure was one of the most memorable evenings & experiences of our lives.


Day 7 : Srinagar Sightseeing

Its Tulip garden time - I was very excited. To our luck, we were at Srinagar the last day the garden was open for the season. This year Tulips had bloomed early.
Hoards of coloured tulips greeted us, many were withering too. But they were beautiful. Definitely Srinagar trip should be planned as per the Tulip season.

Then we went to Nishat gardens, again a very pretty garden built on different levels beautifully landscaped with greenery & water features.

Pretty carpet of white flowers

Delicate prettiness

Touristy fun :)

Bright blooms

Dal greets you everywhere in Srinagar. In the afternoon, we checked out the handloom empire & some other shops and then went to Vivanta by Taj for coffee & dinner. The views from there are not to be missed. Its a sight to watch the sun set over Dal & then city lights appear.

View from Vivanta terrace

at the coffee shop

After a lovely dinner, we returned to our home stay. Shaukat had to part ways with us for the last two days, we missed his banter the next day. His wife was sick & had to be brought to Srinagar hospital from his village.  The curfew meant, she could travel only late at night. It is both amazing & sad how people carry on with regular lives with so many curfews.

Day 8 - Srinagar - Doodhpatri

Next morning as curfew continued, we decided to go to Doodhpatri early in the morning with another driver (around 2 hrs from Srinagar).

Again we opted out of the pony riding there & walked our way through the serene grass meadows & found our way to the river bank. Quite a few people were there. We spent couple of hours there & then returned to Srinagar via Manasbal lake.

Somewhere along the way

Manasbal lake

 Having seen the mighty Dal lake, Manasbal pales in comparison.  We reached Srinagar by 2:30 p.m & lunch at Lalit. They have good food & beautiful lawns. We passed by the the gorgeous Hazratbal Dargah too on the way to our houseboat.

Hazratbal Dargah

Late afternoon we checked into a house boat - Lily of Nigeen on Nigeen lake. It was such a pretty houseboat, we both thought we should've stayed all 3 days there itself.
This houseboat is highly recommended, it is docked close to Nigeen club. On one side is a garden & the other side faces the lake. It is peaceful, spacious & offers comfortable meals.

The garden side of the houseboat

As it was the last evening in Kashmir, we just spent the evening sipping on kahwa on the balcony of our houseboat as the dusk settled into night. We watched shikaras passing by, flower vendors on shikara. It was picture perfect Kashmir. time had stood still.

Serene - view from our houseboat

We left for Mumbai the next morning. Do leave sufficient time before flight as there is an additional baggage screening before reaching the airport.

I've heard Kashmir  looks dramatically different is all seasons. What is very nice about Kashmir,  is that incase you are travelling with young ones or elders & you just want to experience snow, It is really easy to reach Sonmarg from Srinagar airport (2.5 hrs). On the other hand for people more comfortable with challenging terrain & road journeys can explore Drass, Kargil. To truly see nature, treks are recommended.

What do I take from this paradise on Earth...mixed emotions for sure. Just as one gets lost in its unparalleled beauty, Kashmir shows up the brazen reality right in your face. While you can't help but fall in love with its beauty, all you do is hope & pray for peace. It was a vacation unlike any other.

(P.S : the day before we left for Mumbai, my trusted help informed me the rat had been caught! phew!)